| Because of its excellent characters, woolen knitted fabric is loved deeply by people. But woolen fabric will be felting in the laundering process for its special structure that the scale exists on the surface of the fiber. And felting will worsen fabric size stability. At present, chlorination anti-felting method used widely will produce a large amount of harmful materials that can damage environment. Therefore, it is very necessary to research environmental friendly anti-felting process that can both decrease fabric felting and keep nice fabric wearability.Weft plain woolen knitted fabrics used in the experiment have been knitted by flat knitting machine. Horizontal density is18loops per5cm. Vertical density is23.5loops per5cm. Area weight is505g/m2and fabric thickness is2.20mm.Woolen knitted fabric was handled with chitosan anti-felting process after pretreatment. As pretreatment methods, hydrogen peroxide liquor handling, ultrasonic handling and the combined action of hydrogen peroxide and ultrasonic were compared, when the process flow and process conditions were solution concentration0.5%, temperature60℃, time90min, pH value4, penetrating agent2g/L, liquor ratio1:30. The combined action of hydrogen peroxide and ultrasonic was determined as pretreatment method lastly according to fabric area felting.Woolen knitted fabric was handled with chitosan that was identified as the constant process conditions after hydrogen peroxide liquor and ultrasonic pretreatment. According to fabric area shrinkage rate and fabric bursting strength, we performed single factor experiments taking hydrogen peroxide concentration, hydrogen peroxide temperature, hydrogen peroxide time, ultrasonic temperature, ultrasonic time as pretreatment main influencing factors. After that, we conducted the pretreatment orthogonal experiment and studied area shrinkage variation. The result indicated that the affection degree of5factors was hydrogen peroxide concentration> hydrogen peroxide temperature> ultrasonic time> hydrogen peroxide time ultrasonic temperature. The optimal pretreatment process was determined as hydrogen peroxide concentration40ml/L, hydrogen peroxide temperature70℃, hydrogen peroxide time60min, ultrasonic temperature60℃, ultrasonic time10min, the amount of sodium silicate2g/L and pH value9. In the study of fabric feltingproof treatment, according to fabric area shrinkage, whiteness variation and fabric bursting strength, we performed single factor experiments taking chitosan concentration, temperature, time and liquor pH value as chitosan feltingproof treatment main influencing factors in order to choose factor levels range for chitosan treatment orthogonal experiment. Then we made the chitosan orthogonal experiment and analysed experiment data through fuzzy math method. The optimal chitosan feltingproof treatment process is chitosan concentration0.5%, processing temperature60℃, processing time100min, liquor pH value3.5, the mount of penetrant2g/L and liquor ratio1:30.Wearability variation of woolen knit fabrics untreated and after treatment was researched after fabrics were handled with the optimal process. Fabric bursting strength, air permeability, moisture permeability, water absorption, snagging resistance and anti-pilling properties were tested in this paper. Test results were as follows:compared with the untreated fabric, bursting strength of fabrics after treatment decreased evenly by about4%; air transmission increased by about8%; moisture vapor transmission decreased by about10%; water absorption had obvious enhancing; both snagging resistance and anti-pilling increased about half a grade.A new environmental friendly anti-felting way is obtained through the study of this paper. Fabrics after treatment will have good anti-felting effect and nice wearability. |
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