| Pupa protein fiber, also known as viscose staple fiber, is a new kind of biomass fiber being made of natural cellulose and pupa protein. Containing eighteen sorts of amino acids, Pupa protein fiber has functions of beautify the skin, effectively resist UV, anti-mite, etc. In order to satisfy people demands for functional clothing today and broaden the domestic and international markets of green functional knitted products, Pupa protein fiber with excellent performance will be applied in the research and development of knitted products.The linear density of the yarn used in this project is 14.7tex, including 50% Pupa protein fiber and 50% tencel, made by Shandong Dezhou Hengfeng Textile Co., Ltd. Studying and Analyzing from the properties of Pupa protein fiber and its blended yarn, the structure, composition and basic performance of Pupa protein fiber and a number of its blended yarn's performance were tested and analyzed.Based on the performance of Pupa protein fiber and its blended yarn, the stitches of Pupa protein fiber knitted fabric were designed and then knitted on STOLL-CM530HP-automatic computerized flat-knitting machine, which is suitable for underwear fabric. Finally, the basic structural parameters of five different knitted fabric samples were tested and analyzed.In order to improve the fabric whiteness and guarantee the dyeing & finishing processes smoothly, the samples were need to be bleached. Considering the performance of the fiber and its hardship of bleaching, urea hydrogen peroxide was chosen as the bleach. The whiteness, fastness(bursting strength) and handle were identified as the three evaluation indicators, uses the single factor method to analyze the dosage of urea hydrogen peroxide and sodium silicate, the temperature and time on the bleaching process, then combined with the orthogonal experiment to get Pupa protein fiber knitted fabric's optimal bleaching process: urea hydrogen peroxide 8g/L, sodium silicate 9g/L, JFC1.5g/L, p H value 9.5, temperature 75?, time 60 min, liquor ratio 1:25.Owing to the existence of natural cellulose, protein and tencel in the Pupa protein fiber blended yarn, selecting the reactive dyes to study and analyze the dyeing performance of Pupa protein fiber blended knitted fabrics. The dye uptake rate and K/S value were regarded as the two evaluation indicators, uses the single factor analysis method to analyze the dosage of sodium carbonate and sodium sulfate, the fixing time and emperature, then combined with the interactional orthogonal experiment to get Pupa protein fiber knitted fabric's optimal dyeing process: Reactive Blue M-2GE 1%(o.w.f), sodium sulfate 30g/L, sodium carbonate dosage 15g/L, Levelling agent O 0.5g/L, dyeing temperature 65?, dyeing time 35 min, fixing temperature 70?, fixing time 35 min, liquor ratio 1:20. After dyeing process, the Pupa protein fiber knitted fabrics need to be finished to improve its handle and pattern. Finally, color fastness of Pupa protein fiber knitted fabric such as the resistance of washing, rubbing and perspiration were tested, as a result, the color fastness of dyed fabric is ideal, which has reached the color fastness requirements of dyeing fabric.In terms of performance on the Pupa protein fiber knitted fabric, the fastness, thermal-wet comfort, fabric style, appearance conformal were tested, the results were well and abled to meet the standards of knitted fabric requirements; And the fabric have excellent UV resistance, in consistent with the requirements of functional fabrics, suitable for the development of functional health clothing, which has broad market prospect, considerable economic value and social benefits.Combined the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation with the Pupa protein fiber fabric's several performance indicators value, ultimately get the five kinds of fabric stitches' performance quality. |
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