Pattern Forming Research On Custom Shirt

As consumers demand for personalized clothing growing and the business service upgrading,custom clothing is becoming more and more popular.Garment customization can be classified as mass customization and individual customization.Each one needs a pattern for individual customization mostly.Some clothing CAD software equipped with the function to revise pattern automatically.We can get the individual pattern only by inputting the measured size when the pattern library is established early.But many companies don't use so perfect clothing CAD and some companies draw pattern manually mostly.This paper was based on the shirt pattern.Male and female college students at Soochow University were chosen as customized groups.One of clothing CAD software,PGM,was the tool to draw pattern.Then we studied custom shirt pattern.The body type of male and female students at Soochow University was researched first.The latest three years measurement data are selected and the invalid data were removed.The final measurement results were the mean of measurements of each sample.Basic statistics analysis,correlation analysis,factor analysis and cluster analysis of measurement data were conducted to obtain the basis of body type classification.Then the sample was classified by body type.We calculated the size difference of body type control parts and listed type size tables.When the type size was set,we found that the height and the chest girth were not corresponding one by one.The same height may correspond with several chest girths.So the sizes of height and length which are highly correlated with height and the sizes of girth and width which are highly correlated with chest girth are listed separately.The size of one body type can be obtained by combination of height and chest girth.Then we draw shirt patterns for male and female students at Soochow University.The basic male and female shirts were selected for this study to show research methods.Shirt patterns were drawn based on male and female intermediate sizes of the A-type.After shirt patterns were drawn,we analyzed the shirt pattern parts dimensions with A-body type dimensions,and we summarized their relationship.The patterns drawn were grading of the length direction and grading of the girth and width direction respectively to result in all patterns of A-type.Then we analyzed the position movements of the control points among all patterns of A-type and summarized the magnitude of the position movements of the control points.The male pattern of intermediate sizes of the B-type was drawn according to the male pattern of intermediate sizes of A-type.We compared it with the pattern drawn according to the intermediate sizes of B-type.It can be found that the difference between them was little and it within the acceptance range.So the calculation formula of how to obtain intermediate sizes pattern of B,C and D type according to intermediate sizes pattern of A-type was calculated.Then we calculated the calculation formula of how to obtain the control points of any size pattern according to intermediate sizes pattern of A-type.Shirt patterns for all individual can be adjusted from control points of A-type and changes in control points also have the corresponding calculation method,therefore,if a person who can't draw patterns also can use the function which can move position of points or the function of point grading of CAD software to obtain individual pattern based on the A-type intermediate pattern.In addition,we also obtained the calculation formula for the individual dimensions and the relative position of the control point of the pattern.So the pattern can be drawn by the position of control points.We randomly selected one male sample and one female sample.We drew the shirt pattern for male sample by control point movement method and draw the shirt pattern for female sample according to the relative position of the control point method.Then the3 D virtual fitting was conducted.The two shirts both dressed models well.It shows that the two methods to draw the pattern are reasonable.