| The natural dyes used in this paper are an important natural naphthoquinone dyes,which are rich in stems and leaves of henna.The chromophore is 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone.At present,naphthoquinone-type natural dyes were usually used for dyeing of protein,polyester fiber and so on,and in the dyeing process using heavy metal mordant,the dyeing effect can not meet the market demand.From an eco-friendly point of view,this paper improved the dyeing performance of the cotton fabric with naphthoquinone-type natural dyes.Three new methods for improving the dyeing effect of 1,4-naphthoquinone natural dyes dyeing on cotton fabrics were explored for the first time.One of the methods which use keratin extracted from feathers to modify the cotton fabric.Another method which use citric acid and maleic acid to produced a new tetracarboxylic acid,dyes and cotton fiber could be esterified with the new tetracarboxylic by anhydrides,so that the cotton fiber and dyes could be linked together by ion bond.The third which use citric acid and tartaric acid to produced alternating copolymer,dyes and cotton fiber could be esterified with the new hexacarboxylic acid and alternating copolymer by anhydrides,so that the cotton fiber and dyes could be linked together by covalent bond.These methods improved color fastness to rubbings color fastness to washing and apparent color depth of the cotton fabric dyed with 1,4-naphthoquinone natural dyes.The results showed that the extract which was extracted from waste chicken feathers was feather keratin by infrared spectroscopy.And the process of dissolving chicken feathers in sodium hydroxide solution were investigated.The optimal dissolving condition was as follows:The extraction rate 1:20,the treatment time 140 minutes,and the extraction temperature 95 ?.The results of infrared spectroscopy,scanning electron microscopy and thermo-gravimetric analysis showed that the protein extracted from the waste chicken feathers was loaded onto the cotton fabric through the crosslinking agent.The optimal modification condition of cotton fabric was as follows:protein mass fraction 4%,crosslinking agent mass fraction 2%,modification temperature 70 ?,modificated 60 min.The optimal dyeing process of modified cotton fabric was as follows:dyeing temperature 80 ?,dyeing 60 min,dye 7%,pH 3.5.The K/S value of protein-modified cotton fabrics dyed with 1,4-naphthoquinone natural dyes increased from 2.34 to 7.05,and the color fastness increased by 1 to 2 degrees.The results of infrared spectroscopy,X-ray diffraction and mechanical properties showed that the cotton fabrics and the natural 1,4-naphthoquinone dyes were esterified with the polycarboxylic acids.And the esterification reaction could not affect the internal structure of the cotton fiber.At the same time,the whiteness and breaking strength of cotton fabric which dye fixing with two kinds of carboxylic acid are better than dye fixing with one kind of carboxylic acid.Citric acid and maleic acid which were used to dye fixing,The optimal fixing process was as follows:citric acid and maleic acid molar ratio 1:1,citric acid mass fraction 7%,Malay Acid mass fraction 4.23%,sodium hypophosphite mass fraction 7%,cure temperature 160 ?.The apparent color depth was improved to 6.36,color fastness increased by 2 degrees.Citric acid and tartaric acid which were used to dye fixing,The optimal fixing process was as follows:the molar ratio of citric acid to tartaric acid 1:1,citric acid 7%,the content of tartaric acid 5.46%,Sodium phosphate mass fraction of 6%,cure temperature of 165 ?.The apparent color depth was improved to 7.88,color fastness increased by 2 to 3degrees,which could basically satisfied with the color fastness requirements of garment. |
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