| Combed is an important process to improve yarn quality and fabric performance.Combed process can remove the cotton neps,impurities and short fibers content in the fiber sliver,improve the straightness,separateness and parallelism of the fibers in the sliver.Combed process can improve the quality of the yarn and the properties of the fabric.For a long time,the researchers often used subjective evaluaiton such as handle,visual measurement to compared the style difference between two kinds of fabrics and then evaluated the performance difference between combed and combing fabrics.This evaluation method does not analyze the influence mechanism of fiber arrangement on fabric performance from the perspective of fiber structure inside the yarn.The difference in physical properties,comfort and fabric style between combed and combing fabrics is also not comprehensively and objectively compared by means of testing instruments.Without quantitative analysis and comparison of the differences between the two kinds of fabrics,the product advantages and competitiveness of combed fabrics cannot be evaluated accurately.In order to solve the above problems,the performance differences between combed and combing fabrics can be evaluated comprehensively and objectively.This thesis used the mechanism of fiber shift variation in the process of drafting.The influence of the degree of straightness,separateness and parallelism on the yarn quality and fabric performance was analyzed.Four different yarns were designed,including cotton yarn,polyester-cotton 65/35 blended yarn,viscose-cotton 65/35 blended yarn and lyocell yarn.Each yarn was processed by combed process and combing process.Tested and compareed yarn quality indexes in different process.Three different components of fabric were designed,including cotton fabric,polyester-cotton 65/35 blended fabric and viscose-cotton 65/35 blended fabric.Each fabric is classified as combed or combing.A variety of testing instruments were used to test the physical properties of each fabric and its comfort and style.The influence mechanism of the straightness,separateness and parallelism of the fibers separation on fabric performance was discussed,the differences between test results were analyzed.A method to compare comprehensively and objectively the properties of combed and combing fabrics is presented.The results show:(1)Combed process can greatly eliminate the cotton neps,impurities and short fibers in the fiber sliver,improve the arrangement form of fiber in sliver obviously,increase the fiber’s straightness,separateness and parallelism,improve yarn quality significantly.Compared to combing yarns,whether it is pure or blended yarn,the rough details of its kilometer cotton knot and slubs can be reduced by more than 50%.The evenness of yarn can be reduced by more than 10%.Strength and hairiness of yarn have been significantly improved.The combed process in spinning process is a method to improve the yarn quality and develop high quality yarn.(2)Combed yarns have good internal fiber arrangement,the fiber has high degree of straightness,separation and parallelism,the combed fabric made of combed yarn is superior to the combing fabric in all aspects.When the combed fabric is acted upon by external forces,the overall force is uniform,it has few weak points.The tensile strength and bursting strength of the combed fabric are better than that of the combing fabric.Combed yarn has compact structure and high surface finish,The number and length of hairiness on the surface of combed fabric are less than that of combing fabric.The air permeability and moisture permeability of the fabric are related to the surface hairiness.Combed fabric has less hairiness,better permeability,so its air permeability and moisture permeability are better than combing fabric.The fiber has high degree of straightness,separation and parallelism,on the one hand,it can make the surface of the fabric smooth and leveling.On the other hand,when the fabric is subjected to stress,it shows elastic deformation.So from the fabric style,combed fabric compared with combing fabric,it has smooth surface,good elasticity,good shape and soft feel.Based on the mechanical properties,comfort and fabric style of fabric,comparing the differences between fabrics.It is a method to evaluate comprehensively and objectively the performance difference between combed and combing fabrics. |