| Soon after rock climbing became an Olympic sport in Tokyo in 2020,the Paris Organizing Committee announced that it would become an official Olympic sport in 2024,with a total of four gold medals.Now,Chinese speed climbing has reached a higher level in the world.Compared with other countries,the all-round event is still a short board project in China.In order to achieve better results,scientific talent selection is the key to the training of competitive sports talents,and the systematic and perfect scientific talent selection theory is the cornerstone and guarantee of athletes' talent selection.This paper aims to systematically construct an athlete selection index system for 6-8 years old rock climbers,and establish a complete weight model of the index system while determining relevant indicators,so as to provide theoretical reference for the athlete selection development of 6-8 years old rock climbers in China.This study takes 6-8 years old rock climbers who have participated in the climbing competitions above the municipal level(including)as the research object,and systematically studies the athlete selection index system of the 6-8 years old rock climbers by using the methods of literature,expert interviews,Delphi,analytic hierarchy process and mathematical statistics.The basic steps and main contents of the study are as follows: The first step is to make a systematic analysis and research on the basic theory of athlete selection by using the method of literature,so as to understand that athletes at the primary level should pay more attention to the innate,uncontrollable and relatively stable factors and characteristics and the theoretical basis of athlete selection.The second step is to determine the seven factors that influence the primary selection of 6-8 years old rock climbers in China through the expert interview and consultation and the combination of the item group theory.Combined with these seven factors,the index is refined and sorted out,and the content of the primary selection index system of Chinese 6-8 years old rock climbers is preliminarily constructed.The third step is to ask experts to select and optimize the preliminarily constructed index system by using Delphi method.Through three rounds of expert selection and optimization,the index system suitable for the primary selection of 6-8 years old rock climbers in China is finally optimized,including 7 first-level indexes,21 second-level indexes and 30 third-level indexes.The fourth step,on the basis of the principle of analytic hierarchy process(ahp)and steps to construct a hierarchy structure model of 6-8 years old rock climbers' primary selection index system,applying the analytic hierarchy process(ahp)software to determine the weight coefficient for criterion layer and layer index,the weight ranking of group decision criterion rule layer is as follows: body function > body shape > teaching evaluation index > physical quality > family factors > psychological quality > special technology.The weight order of group decision indicator layer is as follows: bone age > upper limb length > intelligence > height > rock sense > intelligence level > reaction time > mother's height > hemoglobin > serum testosterone > mother's body size > subcutaneous fat > weight > grip strength > father's height > physical capacity > psychological > 60M> shoulder width > one minute skipping = start reaction time > father's body size > cross fork > quadrant jump > nerve type > climb time > 800 M > skills > movement fluency > lower limb length > climbing rhythm > will quality > 1-minute sit-ups > standing long jump > climbing height.Based on the research content of this paper,the following suggestions are put forward: firstly,it is suggested to improve the athlete selection system of Chinese 6-8 years old rock climbers.Secondly,it is suggested to establish a more perfect evaluation standard for 6-8 years old rock climbers.The third proposal is to consider the athlete selection from many aspects and angles. |
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