Changes Of Wool Worsted Fabric Hand Valuebefore And After Bonding Based On PhabrOmeter

From 1970 s to the present, it is widely used in the field of clothing with the advantages of simple process, good effect and so on. It has become the main use of the modern clothing production. It is an important factor to achieve the effect of the garment modeling.When bongding the lining and fabric, the original hand value of fabric will be changed. In order to exprole the handle changes of wool worsted fabrics before and after bonding, this paper selectedwool worsted fabrics with different thickness and lining as experimental materials,selected qualified lining according to the national standard and through orthogonal experiment to get the best combination of pressing process conditions firstly. Then, obtained the hand value of fabrics,adhesive linings and composite fabrics by the Phabr Ometer, and established the quantitative relationship of the three of composite fabrics, fabrics, adhesive linings, established the forecast model of composite fabric handvalue.According to the forecast model, the choice of fabric and t lining can be made according to the requirements of the style of the garment.The main results of this research are as follows:1) In the three process parameters, the effect of temperature on the adhesion is the most significant, next is the time level, and the effect of pressure has been small. Therefore, in the actual production, it have to mainly control the bonding temperature, and then choose the appropriate bonding time, and finally can be based on the thickness of the fabric and lining, the organization to exert pressure.2) The fabric had no significant effect on the rate of peel strength before and after dry cleaning, while the adhesive lining had a very significant effect on the rate of change. The rate of peel strength increased with the increase of the thickness and the weight of the adhesive.3) The compatibility of woven lining and galling lining with worsted fabrics is better than that of weft insertion warp knitting and non-woven lining.4) After bonding, stiffness of wool worsted fabrics increased, fabric wasmore stiff; softness decreased; smoothness decreased; and the drape,wrinkle recovery rate and stretch index were getting worse.5) Obtain the law and the influencing factors of the hand value of wool worsted fabrics before and after bonding:stiffness change rate increase with the increase of thickness of fabric and lining weight; softness change rate increase with the increase of softness of fabric and lining weight; smoothness change rate increase with the increase of smoothness of lining; drape change rate increase with the increase of lining weight; the change rate of wrinkle recovery rate increases with the increase of wrinkle recovery rate and thickness of fabric; the change rate of stretch index increase with thestretch index of lining.6) The prediction model of composite fabric handle style is established, and the model is a multiple linear regression equation.The model was verified by 5 groups of samples, and the results showed that the prediction model had a good prediction effect.