Research And Development For The Wearing Comfort Properties Of Milk Knitted Underwear Fabrics

Underwear is the necessary and consumable products in peoples’ daily life,especially the underpants. According to the average person6~12pairs are consumedper year, the average person demand falls on China’s1.4billion people are84-168billion one year. So the underwear market has great potential. With the developmentof the national economy, and the improvement of people’s living level, Consumerdemand for knitted underwear consumption will continue to upgrade and the domesticmarket for knitted underwear development will be put forward higher requirements.High-end underwear which with the features of comfortable, healthy, fashionable arefavored by more and more consumers.Many domestic and foreign scholars have been concerned on the study ofunderwear comfort, the research on the underwear is quite limited. The comfort ofunderwear products and the health of human body are affected by yarn, fabricstructure, knitting technology and fabric finishing process.Milk fiber is also known as “semi-synthetic regenerated protein fiber”, it has theadvantages of natural fiber and synthetic fiber. Milk fiber with the excellent featuresof high strength, small shrinkage, beauty care, moisture permeability,air permeability,soft hand feeling and other excellent properties have attracted many scholars’ eye.Milk fiber is one of the main raw materials of Jin Long garment factory where is thesubject source comes from. Therefore, in this paper, combined with the developmentof actual product requirements and practice experience of Zhongshan Jin longenterprise, development of underwear for milk blended yarn fabric and its wearingcomfort is studied. Firstly, five different organizational structures, modal/milk (85/15) blends fibercombined with two different linear density of spandex yarn were designed tocompleted new type of knitted underwear fabric weaving through knitting methodrespectively. Ten kinds of knitted underwear fabrics are completed and followed upfrom knitting process to pretreatment to presetting and to scouring. Researchorganizational structure and linear density of spandex yarn on warmth retentionproperty and moisture permeability, moisture absorption, quick dry properties, airpermeability, flexibility as well as anti-pilling performance. The results showed thatsingle pique organization structure has good wet comfort, air permeability, quickdrying and small bending stiffness; Based on single pique organization structure andadd some single needle columns properly will not decreasing the other basis comfortand can improving the ability of moisture transfer through fabrics and dry-fastproperties. On the basis of single pique organization structure and set of doublecolumns is not configured properly, or Tuck and float line combined organization willreduced the wearing comfort and the ability of anti-pilling. The comfort propertiesand the ability of anti-pilling of fabrics will reduced through thickness, longitudinal,transverse density and surface density of the fabric which increased by linear densityincrease in spandex.Secondly, in recent years, many companies use silicone soft agent on underwearproducts to meet the hand-feeling demand of customers. However, the silicone softagent can cause poor air and moisture permeability. Two kinds of fabrics aredevelopment to meet the hand-feeling of underpants, clothing comfort and new fabricneeds in summer. One is Modal/milk (85/15)fabric, and the other one is Tencel/viscose/milk (50/35/15)fabric. The best hydrophilic softening agent are selectedthrough contrast experiments. The traditional Silicone softener just can improve thesoft performance obviously, but the moisture permeability and heat permeability arepoor, and the fabric treated with traditional silicone softener can not meet therequirements of consumer. The modal/milk (85/15) knitted fabric andTencel/viscose/milk (50/35/15) knitted fabric have best finishing effect when theytreated with four-in-one hydrophilic soft agent and three-in-one hydrophilic softagent.Concentration, temperature and time are the most important factors in theprocess of hydrophilic soft finishing. Two fabrics’ technological parameters ofhydrophilic and soft finishing are determined by means of orthogonal experiment, inwhich the effects of parameters including concentration, temperature and time are investigated. The best finishing conditions containing concentration, temperature andtime are5%,40℃and40mins respectively for modal/milk (85/15) knitted fabric and5%,40℃,20mins for Tencel/viscose/milk(50/35/15) knitted fabric.