Trial-manufacture And Performance Research Of Men’s Shirt In Silk-mixed Fabric

Silk fabric is the better choice to men’ s shirt due to its characteristics likes as goodpermeability, wear comfortable, fine luster, soft and smooth handle. On the contrary to this, ithas the defect of shrink, wrinkle freely and expensive in market. Whereas, cotton fabric iseconomical and useful as well as it has some resemblance like silk fabric. Wool has goodflexibility, absorbency, and fine warmth retention. Polyester fabric has high strength elasticity,bright luster, good extensibility, wash ability and can easy dry. Under above said qualities offabrics, silk is interwoven with other fibers by mixed woven technique to highlight silk andits characteristic to prevail over its defects. It is feasible to develop new trend of fashion formen’s shirting and wearing of silk fabric.This research is based on data acquisition of men’s shirt. In order to achieve the target ofthis research, four styles of dyed yarn for men’s shirt fabrics were designed by CAD software.The three kinds of silk-mixed fabrics of A, B and C were designed by the need ofexperimental research. Silk content is increased gradually within a certain range through thechange of intertion proportion. And the performance of silk-mixed fabrics were tested tostudy the influence of raw materials and specifications of the fabric which have an effect onlustrousness, ventilation and water vapor permeability property, crease recovery and etc. Theconclusions are drawn as follows:(1). In the aspect of lustrousness, silk/cotton mixed fabric’s lustrousness is higher thanthe other two kinds, and closer to the silk fabric, average value is16.63%1/2. The fabriclustrousness decreases no more than22%in the case of silk content reduces more than30%,It also shows that silk/cotton mixed fabrics can keep fine lustrousness in reducing fabricscosts, which has important significance to the development of high-grade men’s shirts fabrics.The fabric lustrousness of B1-B5increases gradually from12.38%1/2and average value is14.38%1/2. Fabric lustrousness reduces25.2%under the premise of silk content is lost48%averagely. The average value of fabric C1-C5is15.28%1/2, which is close to fabric A. (2).Based on the the comfort performance, silk/cotton mixed fabrics have the finestpermeability property, the average permeability value is1561.12mm/s, which is over twicethan pure silk fabric’. silk/wool mixed fabrics’ average permeability value is705.52mm/s andsilk/polyester mixed fabrics’ is about460mm/s. The fabric evaporability value is as follow:silk/cotton mixed fabric> silk/wool mixed fabric> pure silk fabric> silk/polyester mixedfabric. Silk/cotton fabrics and pure silk fabric put wet balance need85min, silk/wool fabricis70min, and silk/polyester is just55min(3).It is found that in addition to pure silk fabric’s, crease recovery of silk/polyestermixed fabrics is the best, and average value is290°. The average value of silk/wool mixedfabrics and silk/cotton mixed is all about270°. In addition, silk/polyester fabrics are also flatafter washing. While the fabric drapability is as follow: silk fabric> silk/cotton mixed fabric> silk/wool mixed fabric> silk/polyester mixed fabric(4). Tensile property, bursting performance and bending property are discussed in thispaper. It is found that their warp strength is near because of the same warp specifications. Theweft strength of silk/polyester mixed fabrics is the biggest. The average value is548.5N,which is44%higher than silk/cotton fabrics,29%higher than silk/wool fabrics, and12.7%higher than pure silk fabric.