| Along with the formation of globalized market, the competition among enterprises has been focused on how to meet the customer's individual demand without sacrificing the efficiency in the meantime. Under this situation, the mode of MTM production emerges as required. On the other hand, garment fitness has been widely considered as one of the most important factors that affect the clothing shape and its marketability. Particularly customization becomes a need because of the female consumers'demand for comfort, fitness, high quality and high grade.Based on this background, this thesis focuses on the achievement of fitted blouse's basic pattern. The main content of the study is as follows:1. Youth female upper body measurement and characteristic parameter extractionThe 3D scanning survey experiment was carried on 190 youth females aged from 19 to 26, from which 183 pieces of effective samples were obtained. Based on the measurement data, factor analysis was made on the female upper body variables and 17 body type factors were extracted out. Further,6 typical characteristic parameters including height, bust, waist, hip, neck, Shoulder to Shoulder thru back neck, which can best stand for the physical characteristic were refined out by correlation analysis. As in the traditional garment prototype, only two controlled variables, bust and height were selected out as the dependent variables of the body type and clothing structure regression equations. This study, to some extent, enhanced the clothing fitness scientifically which would contribute to the possibility of mass customization.2. Establishment of fitted blouse's basic patternThrough analyzing the relation between female upper body type characteristic and the clothing structure based on body type factors, the body type classification standard was established and the body type was described quantitatively and completely by stepwise regression model and multi-parameter method. Based on integrating the basic structure characteristic of blouse and projecting the physical characteristic regression model to the basic pattern of fitted blouse, the regression formulas and theoretic foundation of basic pattern were established.This basic pattern concentrates on the part upper from the waist, expanding the design to hip line, meanwhile, achieving the garment body's integrity and coherence. It over passed the difficulties of fitted garment design based on garment prototype. The feasibility and guiding significance of the basic pattern in fitted style structure design was proposed.3. Clothing sample evaluation on virtual fitting and mannequin fittingBy utilizing the Gerber V-stiticher 3D fitting technology, the virtual effect of the blouse's basic pattern was verified and further verification was made on the mannequin. A consistent effect provided for the confirmation of the practical guidance and theoretical value for the fitted blouse's basic pattern.4. Fuzzy comprehensive evaluation on clothing sample in different ease sizesAccording to the analysis on the influence of clothing ease on human body's static activity, a set of basic blouse patterns with different ease was provided and the subjective evaluation system was set up.10 subjects in accordance with national 160/80A body type were elected to try on the samples and completed the subjective evaluation. The first-level, and the second-level fuzzy comprehensive evaluation were used to process the results. The first-level evaluation showed that sample garment with a ease of 10cm got the highest value in the static fitness evaluation and in the dynamic comfort and appearance evaluation, the sample garment with a ease of 6cm got the highest value. The second-level evaluation showed that effect of sample garment with a ease of 8cm was the best effect in both static and dynamic evaluation. According to those, the scientific and guiding significance of a ease set with 8cm at bust line in the study area of garmont fitness was proved.
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