Development&Propertie Research On Bamboo Pulp/mercerized Wool Blended Fabric

With the enhancement of Awareness of environmental protection and health care,It is becoming fashionable that the pursuit of clothing comfort,aesthetics and even health care and other functionality.It turns into a trend of the use of different fiber for blending,which can exert the advantages of various components of fiber and overcome its shortcomings,achieving performance complement each other.At the same time,breaking the thinking limitations that wool is only used for autumn and winter thick fabric.In this paper,It was employed that the good hygroscopicity and elastic recovery of mercerized wool,combined with bamboo fiber of good moisture absorption and permeability,It was developed that the multi-functional summer high-end close-fitting thin fabric.In this paper,bamboo pulp fibers and mercerized wool fibers are used as raw materials,and the blending ratio are 30/70,50/50,70/30,respectively.During the spinning process,the process parameters are optimized and the properties of three kinds of blended yarns were tested and analyzed.The results show that the strength and elongation of the yarn increase with the mercerized wool content in the yarn,but the abrasion resistance is bad,the hairiness is increased and the uniformity decreases.According to the average floating length theory and the tightness theory of the fabric,It were designed that four kinds of fabrics such as wheat grain,twill,plain jacquard and fancy hole and two different fabric tightness.First of all,the method of partial performance test and evaluation was used to optimize the fabric structure and tightness.The results concluded that the fancy hole and plain jacquard are the better tissue,and when tightnessE_j(28)65%,_wE(28)48%,It was satisfied,and the fabrics have better wrinkle recovery.Three kinds of blended yarns are designed and woven by the method of pure woven and interweaving.it was used six kinds of bamboo pulp/mercerized wool fiber content ratio and two kinds of tissue.So 12 kinds of fabrics are designed and tested.By testing the anti-UV properties and appearance retention(including pilling,steam retraction,crease recovery),The results show that in the pilling test,the more bamboo pulp fiber,the shorter the average float length of the fabric,the better anti-pilling of the fabric;the worse steam shrinkage for the more mercerized wool,due to the longer average float length.While the anti-UV property of the fabric is related to the content of bamboo pulp fiber,the higher content of bamboo pulp in the fabric,and the better anti-ultraviolet,The fabrics designed in this subject meet the UPF50+.As the fabric style test,It was tested the shear,tensile,compression,bending and surface properties of fabric under low stress.The result of fabric style test shows that c1and c2 have good smooth waxy degree,which shows that the fabric is more active and delicate,and its fullness is poorer,which shows that the fabric is thin,smooth and cool,and indicates that it is suitable for summer apparel fabrics.At the same time,the result of comprehensive style calculation reveals that the fabric has a good style when the ratio is almost 1:1,which indirectly reflects the necessity of blending.In the study of fabric comfort,firstly the tested of the fabric contact comfort,It was fabric itching,the results show that all fabrics are comfortable and no itching.Relatively speaking,the mercerized wool owns big stiffness,so the more content results into the the worse comfort.At the same time,the thermal and moisture comfort of fabrics were tested,including breathability,moisture permeability,thermal resistance and water conductivity.The results show that the higher content of the mercerized wool is,the better air permeability is.In the fabric thermal resistance test,the thermal conductivity of the fabric increases with the mercerized wool content,and the thermal resistance of the small jacquard fabric is slightly higher than the fancy-type through-holes fabrics,Indicating that it has good warmth.The moisture permeability of the fabrics increases gradually with the increase of the mercerized wool content,but the results of the moisture permeability of the small jacquard fabrics and the fancy-type through-holes fabrics never change much,Which indicate that the permeability of the fabric is less affected by the fabric structure.The wicking height of the fabric increases with the increase of the bamboo fiber content,and the fancy hole tissue has better water conductivity than the small jacquard woven fabric.For the optimal fabric with overall good performance could not be directly derived from the fabric performance test results.Therefore,the factor analysis model was used in this paper.It was processed that 12 kinds of fabrics and 21 fabric performance test results,It was got the score of every performance in the fabric,which saw as the weight coefficient of the fuzzy comprehensive evaluation model and establish the double matrix of the weight coefficient and the fabric performance.The comprehensive evaluation result of the fabric is got through the calculation.The results show that:c2>c1>d1>d2>e2>e1>d2>e1>d2>e2>c2>c1>d1>d2>e2>B1>e1>f1>f2>b2>a2>a1.That is,when the blended ratio is50/50 or 54/46,the fabric has better comprehensive performance.At the same time,the mean-variance model is used to evaluate the volatility of fabric properties,and the results show that the comprehensive performance volatility of fabrics c1 and b2 are small,which is consistent with the results of fuzzy comprehensive evaluation and the reliability of the results is proved.